Zermatt 2024 Day 6: Furi (1867m) to Stafelalp (2100m)

Intermission

I’m sorry about the break in these articles.  We were away for a while, and the autumn shows have started which takes up a lot of my time.

My Achilles tendon was very tight first thing in the morning, after my fall the previous day, but by the time I had hobbled the length of Zermatt to the Trockener Steg gondola station at the south end of town, it had loosened up considerably, and I was fine for the rest of the day.

Route

We got off the gondola at Furi, and walked toward Stapelalp, along the upper path on the south side of the Zmuttbach valley.  We stopped and turned back before we got to the restaurant at Stafelalp.  I would love to walk further and explore the valley moraine in the bottom of the valley, where the glacier has retreated, but I suspect that is simply too far for us.

We returned along the lower road past the reservoir, and were back in Furi in time for an affogato before catching the gondola back to Zermatt.

The beginning of this walk gave us another look at the meadow flora, before we left the meadows for a long trail through the woods.

Salvia pratensis

Even before we had worked out which path we wanted, we had wonderful views over a large patch of Salvia pratensis down to Zermatt.

These meadows around Furi were rich with flowers: white Cow parsley and hogweed, lilac thistles Carduus defloratus, yellow Hawkweed, and navy blue Rampion (Phyteuma orbiculare).

Campanula scheuchzeri

A little bit further and the blue bells of Campanula scheuchzeri made an appearance.

Trifolium montanum

Here and there were solid carpets of the white mountain clover, Trifolium montanum.

Phyteuma orbiculare

The Round-headed Rampion here provided a lovely deep blue note among the white of Bladder campion (Silene vulgaris) and ox-eye daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare) and the yellow of hawkweed and hay-rattle.

Oxytropis campestris

Amongst all this abundance, there were a few flowers of pale yellow Oxytropis campestris, as well as the violet Oxytropis halleri subsp velutina we had seen previously.

Gymnadenia conopsea

Out in the middle of the meadow, we saw just one Fragrant Orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea).

Phyteuma betonicifolium

As well as the round deep blue heads of Phyteuma orbiculare, we saw the longer, paler blue spikes of Phyteuma betonicifolium.

Thymus species

The top of the rocky bank between the road and the meadow was home to mats of thyme.

Sempervivum tectorum

Among the thyme and stonecrop at the top of the bank, we found big fleshy rosettes of Sempervivum tectorum, thrusting up flowering shoots.

Viola tricolor

Next to the Sempervivum, you can see the little flowers of the charming Viola tricolor.

Bladder campion and Campanula rhomboidalis (?)

The next meadow was dotted blue with Campanula flowers.  This is the plant we identified tentatively as Campanula rhomboidalis.

Helianthemum nummularium and Scabiosa double form

Then we saw carpets of yellow rock roses (Helianthemum nummularium), together with the puzzling heads of what appeared to be a double scabious.  Given the location, this might have been a garden escape.

Erigeron acris (?)

By the roadside we found the tall lilac daisies of an Erigeron, possibly E. acris.

Gypsophila repens

At this point, the road passed beyond the meadows, and into pine woodland, with a rocky bank down the left side.  This was home to a familiar selection of rock and crevice loving plants, first Gypsophila repens.

Saxifraga paniculata

As well as the Gypsophila, there were fine specimens of Saxifraga paniculata.

Thalictrum minus

With the saxifrages, we found Sempervivum montanum, and small clumps of Thalictrum minus.

Primula hirsuta

We also passed some magnificent clumps of Primula hirsuta, sadly already over.

Trollius europaeus

At the base of the rocks there were strong plants of Trollius europaeus, growing with Geranium sylvaticum.

Valeriana tripteris

Also here, we found some strange branched flower stems with occasional tiny white flowers.  Eventually, I realised that they were Valeriana tripteris, going over.

Rhododendron ferrugineum

At this point we were able to turn off the road and climb a short steep slope between banks of Rhododendron ferrugineum up onto a higher track which led in the same direction through the forest.

Laserpitium halleri

I think these intricately branched leaves belonged to an umbellifer, Laserpitium halleri.

Zmutt

Having started our walk higher up, and further up the valley than the first day, we already had great views of the hamlet of Zmutt nestled on the other side of the valley.

Saxifraga oppositifolia

There were a few plants of Saxifraga oppositifolia on the rocks here, which had obviously flowered earlier in the season, and rather sparsely even then.

Saxifraga cuneifolia

Much happier in this woodland habitat, and flowering profusely, was Saxifraga cuneifolia, looking like a miniature London Pride.

Bartsia alpina

The wide path climbed slowly, but made easy walking through the open woodland, past banks covered in Bugle (Ajuga reptans), Horseshoe Vetch (Hippocrepis comosa), and the parasitic Bartsia alpina.

Petasites albus

Where a stream crossed the path we found a small area of White Butterbur, Petasites albus.

On the other side of the valley, similar streams carved spectacular paths down from the heights, and down across the steep sheep-strewn meadows.

Viola biflora and Lilium martagon

Plenty of other woodland species appeared along the side of the path.  Viola biflora was magnificent, whereas Lilium martagon (still in bud) was heavily predated by its attendant red lily beetles.

Euphorbia cyparissias

On a sunnier bank, Euphorbia cyparissias was well-established, reminding me of the years I spent eradicating it from my rock garden, after naively introducing it.

Meadow species

These sunny glades also included many other species we were used to seeing in the meadows: Aster bellidiastrum, Biscutella laevigata, and Trifolium montanum.

Astragalus alpinus

We found fine fresh-flowered specimens of one of my favourite alpines, Astragalus alpinus.

Tofieldia calyculata

We also found some curious spikes of tight buds, but eventually I found a plant in flower in a sunny scree, and realised that these were the little asphodel Tofieldia calyculata.

Gentiana species

Identifying this gentian has proved extremely problematic.  One correspondent suggested G. rostranii, but that is not known from this area.  On the other hand, it might be simply Gentiana verna, elongated by growing in the shade.  Thoughts anyone ?

By now, we were passing the reservoir which has been built above Zmutt.  Cascades continued to pour down both sides of the valley into the lake.

Sempervivum montanum

The banks were now greener, and mossier, and decked with Sempervivum montanum and Cerastium arvense (chickweed).

Pseudorchis albida

I was convinced that one grass-green spike on a shady bank was a Small White Orchid (Pseudorchis albida).

Campanula cochlearifolia

When we passed a small wall retaining a rocky section of bank, we found Campanula cochlearifolia growing out of the cracks.

Cirsium spinosissimum

Our path eventually returned to the road.  On the other side were open meadows, with the beautiful but spiny thistle, Cirsium spinosissimum.

Pedicularis verticillata

There were fine plants of Pedicularis verticillata here.

Arnica montana

Originally we had planned to continue to the restaurant at Stafelalp, but that was another kilometre further, and about 150m higher up.  Furthermore, we weren’t entirely sure whether the path was open after the recent floods, so instead we chose to stop on a convenient rock and eat our packed lunch.

Opposite were some clumps of curious almost fleshy lanceolate leaves which puzzled me initially, but I have since realised they were Arnica montana growing in open rocky soil rather than amongst grass.

Pedicularis recutita

Eventually we set off again, back down the road.  Diane and I quickly became backmarkers, investigating every interesting plant.  The first thing to catch my attention was this rather curious, tall Pedicularis.

Pedicularis verticillata

Nearby were more plants of Pedicularis verticillata, including an interesting pale pink form.

Pinguicula vulgaris

On a damp bank where a stream ran down, we found a small colony of Butterwort – Pinguicula vulgaris.

Saxifraga aizoides

Growing in surprisingly damp shady places, almost in the gutter along the roadside, we saw some cushions full of bud.  Eventually we found a couple of flowers opening, which confirmed that these were Saxifraga aizoides.

Pyrola rotundifolia

Higher up, on the rocky bank, were the white candles of Round-leaved Wintergreen (Pyrola rotundifolia).  I hadn’t learnt my lesson – this meant dangerous clambering again.

Salix reticulata

Another surprise find on this shady bank were the leaves and catkins of the little willow, Salix reticulata.

Pinguicula alpina

As always, I was delighted to find the white and yellow flowers of Pinguicula alpina.

Saxifraga cuneifolia

Saxifraga cuneifolia was even more abundant here on this shady roadside bank.

Pseudorchis albida

Further down we found larger and more striking spikes, which confirmed my earlier identification of Small White Orchid, Pseudorchis albida.  Having encountered it mainly in open meadows in the Dolomites, I was surprised to find it mainly in shade here.  More climbing on the bank !

Ranunculus platanifolius

We had seen Ranunculus platanifolius earlier, in the wood, but there were better plants here, in damp shady conditions.

Ranunculus species

There were also rather spectacular clumps of yellow buttercups, growing with Geranium sylvaticum.  I can’t identify the species with any confidence.

The road passes right by the dam of the reservoir, which was very impressive, and brim full.

Salix species

Several unidentifiable willows followed, between the cascades of streams leaping down the banks.

Pinus cembra

The new buds on Pinus cembra were a beautiful red.

Saxifraga paniculata

Slowly, we were returning towards Zmutt, with Saxifraga paniculata growing happily on the rocks along the edge of the road.

Sorbus aucuparia

The Rowan bushes along the road were in full flower.

Phyteuma orbiculare

Where the trees overhead opened up, we found sunny banks of Round-headed Rampion (Phyteuma orbiculare), growing with Aster bellidiastrum.

Trifolium species

Also growing with the Phyteuma was a pretty white / pink clover which I can’t identify confidently.  In some ways the strikingly marked leaves are most like Trifolium pratense (Red Clover) despite the flower colour.

Plantago media

On the other side of the road, a little area of meadow boasted a fine display of hay-rattle (Rhinanthus species) and Hoary Plantain (Plantago media).

Vicia sepia

Also here, I saw quite a tall purple vetch which I think was Vicia sepia.

Aconitum lycoctonum subsp vulparia

In the shade on our right, Wolfsbane was just coming into flower.

Adenostyles alliariae

Along with it, big clumps bearing the purple heads of Adenostyles alliariae.

The road was lower down than the path we walked earlier, and gave us better views of Zmutt.

Clouds wreathed the valley to the north, beyond Zermatt.

Achillea macrophylla ?

This Achillea was another puzzle.

Erysimum rhaeticum

As we approached the meadows again, there were more and more flowers.  Here are Red Campion (Silene dioica) and the little wallflower we had seen everywhere (Erysimum rhaeticum).

As we walked back through the last few meadows, we passed some fine gardens, with attractive plants of Cerastium tomentosum, Dianthus sylvestris, and Aquilegia.

Back in Furi, we stopped for a cup of coffee (in my case affogato) at a very pleasant little restaurant.  The terrace had views out over a lovely meadow.

Sempervivum arachnoideum

Between the restaurant and the cable car station, a rock outcrop played host to some Sempervivum arachnoideum in wonderful condition.

Back down in Zermatt, I couldn’t resist a few pictures as we walked back down the main street.  This fountain / sculpture with marmots is at the junction between Kirchstrasse and Bahnhofstrasse.

This was another lovely day with lots of interesting plants. It was a relief that I completed the walk comfortably, if slowly.

Helen’s fitbit reckoned we did 20,783 steps, 9.21 miles, and climbed 45 flights of stairs during the day.  Google’s straight line measurements of our walk, including 1.3km each way between the hotel and the bottom gondola station, total 9.3km, 5.8 miles with around 250m of ascent.  But of course, we didn’t walk in a straight line, and the walk was only part of our day.