Zermatt 2024 Day 9: Trockener Steg and Schwarzsee

Trockener Steg (2929m)

Trockener Steg is a station above Schwarzsee on the gondola which rises from the south of Zermatt.  It has a large self-service restaurant and an extensive terrace, which must afford magnificent views in the summer, though with temperatures down to near freezing, we preferred to sit inside. We didn’t encounter the James Bond villain who clearly lives here.

This is primarily a skiing hub.  From here you can get a cable car up to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise at the Kleine Matterhorn at 3883m, and then venture further to Testa Grigia on the border with Italy, whence you can ski back to Trockener Steg, and then (in winter) down a broad piste leading down to Zermatt.  Even at the end of June, people were skiing down from higher up, though the run effectively ended here.  The really adventurous can cross the border, and descend to Cervinia in Italy.

Although the snow was thawing, the ground below was a moonscape of broken rock, with little sign that it would be home to grass, even in the summer.  The only plant life we saw from the gondola was occasional green cushions, some (Silene acaulis) pink with flower.

Hornungia alpina

We were soon outside the building, botanizing, wrapped up well against the biting wind.  The first plant we came across was Hornungia alpina (formerly Pritzelago alpina or Hutchinsia alpina), just coming into flower.

Saxifraga biflora

One plant we were hoping to see here was Saxifraga biflora, and possibly its natural hybrid with Saxifraga oppositifolia, Saxifraga x. kochii.  It didn’t take long before we found our first plant, in the shelter of the station building.  Sadly most of the flowers were already over, but there were enough left to confirm the plant’s identity.

There was very little ground for us to explore – most of the mountain was still covered in a liberal blanket of snow.  But I did find a narrow path along the outside of the conveyor shown in these images towards one rocky outcrop beyond, though we could not get far, and approach some of the tempting locations further from the station.

Saxifraga oppositifolia

Despite the cold, it was well worth the effort to creep along that path and to explore this outcrop.  It quickly revealed a good colony of Saxifraga oppositifolia cushions in reasonable condition.

The leaves were just breaking on carpets of Salix retusa, and Draba aizoides was in bud.

Saxifraga biflora

Among the rock rubble, it was easy to overlook more tiny plants of Saxifraga biflora.

We also found two other plants we could not identify for certain.  One looks like it might be Leucanthemopsis alpina, the other might be an Achillea.

Behind us, the valley was still shrouded in a heavy layer of cloud.

The Matterhorn itself was playing peek-a-boo among the clouds.

Every now and then the curtains would part and reveal the mountains around us.

Below them a wide strip of snow and broken rock, where the piste passed on its way down towards Zermatt.

Breithorn 4164m

The Breithorn in particular was spectacular when it appeared above us.

Meltwater

After a cup of warming coffee, we caught a gondola back down to the relative warmth of Schwarzsee, spotting cushions of pink Saxifraga oppositifolia and Silene acaulis below us, and a scattering of pale blue which might have been Myosotis.  Great torrents of meltwater were pouring downhill across this rocky landscape.

Schwarzsee (2552m)

By the time we got back down to Schwarzsee, patches of blue sky were appearing, and we were greeted with familiar views of the Gornergletscher, under the shadow of Liskamm.

Furggbach

From this viewpoint, we could look down at the meltwater rushing down the valley just south of Schwarzsee.

Antennaria dioica

The ridge overlooking the Furggbach was pink and white with vast patches of Antennaria dioica, spotted with occasional magenta spikes of Pedicularis verticillata.

Alchemilla species

Some areas were almost a monoculture of Alchemilla.

Minuartia verna (?)

The rocky path was home to little mats of Minuartia.

And at least one hairy caterpillar.

The longer grass on this ridge below the hotel was dotted with the lilac of Viola calcarata, and the blue of spring gentians.

Gentiana brachyphylla

As we walked west from the gondola station, there were more patches of spring gentians on the ridge.  These were mostly Gentiana brachyphylla, in various shades of blue.

Gagea serotina

In places, the little white flowers of Gagea serotina bobbed in the wind.

Loiseleuria procumbens

Again, there were big mats of Loiseleuria procumbens, just coming into flower.

Homogyne alpina

There were also mats of another shrub, which might have been a Vaccinium.  Amongst them, I found some curious round wrinkled leaves which puzzled me for a while, until I realised that the unfurling flowerhead was that of the pink Alpine Coltsfoot, Homogyne alpina.

Gentiana schleicheri

Some of the clumps of gentian seemed to have the short pointed, spearhead-like leaves of Gentiana schleicheri.

Minuartia sedoides

Some of the banks were green with the cushions and lime-green flowers of Minuartia sedoides, shown here with clumps of Luzula lutea with its straw-coloured flowers.

Lunch

We had lunch on the ridge overlooking Schwarzsee, with the little chapel down by the lake.

Silene acaulis

All around us were big pink cushions of Silene acaulis.

Whilst we ate, I conceived a fancy to continue across the end of the lake to the ridge at the far side, where rocky outcrops and cliffs provided a habitat we hadn’t really encountered so far on this trip.  Helen decided she would rather sit on a rock admiring the view and wait for me to return.

The alpine flora was well advanced here, with many familiar flowers, including:

• The little white spikes of Alpine Bistort, Polygonum viviparum
• Yellow mats of Potentilla aurea
• Blue Gentiana brachyphylla
• The deep green leaves and larger yellow flowers of Geum montanum
• Small plants of Androsace obtusifolia, with its white flowers with yellow centres
• The daisy-like rosettes and hairy buds of Veronica bellidioides.

Hornungia alpina

The little white rock-cress, Hornungia alpina, which we had seen in bud at Trockener Steg, was fully out here.

The view back behind me was magnificent, with the path leading back towards the Gornergletscher.

Androsace vandellii

As I approached the cliffs, my heart suddenly leapt with excitement.  Under the craggy overhangs I could glimpse small white balls; I knew immediately I had to get up there.  It meant a precarious scramble up a steep grassy bank, and I was on my own, all too aware of my slip earlier in the holiday, but nevertheless…  I had stumbled across a small colony of Androsace vandellii, something I really hadn’t expected to find on this holiday.

We are meant to call it Androsace argentea now, but it has been Androsace vandellii all my life, a regular visitor to alpine show benches, and I am reluctant to try to change my mental label now.

Silene acaulis

Full of excitement, I returned to Helen, and we descended to the chapel by the lake.  I wanted to explore the slopes around the lake, where, among other things, there were fine clumps of Gentiana acaulis.  Again, Helen opted to wait on a bench; again surrounded by Silene acaulis.

Gentiana acaulis

Immediately behind Helen, the bank was covered with gentians, in a variety of blues.

Myosotis species

Among the gentians there were sky-blue forget-me-nots.

Before I set off around the lake, a path which climbed the ridge behind the chapel was calling to me.

Gentiana brachyphylla

Almost immediately, I found more plants of Gentiana brachyphylla, here growing in the middle of a large cushion of Silene acaulis.

Primula hirsuta

As I climbed higher, I started to find small plants of Primula hirsuta among the rocks.

Salix retusa

The Salix retusa here was starting to flower.

Gagea serotina

Around one corner there was a mass of ‘Snowdon lilies’.

Soldanella alpina

Before long, I was on a north-facing slope, where snow still lingered in the dips, and Soldanella alpina was in flower.

The path led on and upwards to the west, but I was concerned about time, and Helen sitting by the lake, so I started to retrace my steps.

Callianthemum coriandrifolium

Returning slowly downwards, I realised that the white daisies around me were actually Callianthemum coriandrifolium, amother plant I was not expecting to see.

Once down, I set off around the lake.  On the steep bank at the south end of the pool, the snow was only just melting.

Soldanella alpina

Here, in the snow-melt, Soldanella alpina was flowering in abundance – the biggest patches I saw this holiday.

I could look back across the lake to see the chapel reflected in the lake, with mountains behind, and Helen waiting patiently on a seat nearby.

Gentiana acaulis

As I returned along the east side of the lake, there were large clumps of gentians to photograph.

Ligusticum mutellinoides

Nearly back, I found a solitary plant of the little umbellifer Ligusticum mutellinoides.

Ranunculus kuepferi

Before we returned to the town, I wanted to explore the other little lake, 200m or so away, which we had walked past on our previous visit.  Here the banks were white with Ranunculus kuepferi.

Androsace carnea

Among the Ranunculus, this little Androsace was flowering.

Gentiana acaulis ?

Snow had still been lingering around this lake on our previous visit, and we didn’t exlpore.  On the far side I found clumps of Gentiana acaulis (?), which were not yet out, but which appeared to have white buds.

Gentiana brachyphylla

I also found a very pale form of Gentiana brachyphylla, just opening.

My exploration was cut short by a sound from above.  The gondola chain kept stopping for a short time, and then starting again.  There was still an hour before the last scheduled descent, but we thought we had better return to the station; we really didn’t want to have to walk down.

Approaching the gondola station, we found more Gentiana brachyphylla, Viola calcarata, Sempervivum montanum and a pretty yellow buttercup.

The gondola ride down afforded wonderful views of the town below, and up the gorge of the Gornerbach.

We soon passed the little hamlet of Furi, and both sheep and goats on the sides of the Mattertal valley.

As we walked back through town, a local festival meant that we passed groups blowing Alpenhorns among the overpriced gentians and edelweiss.

Google suggests that we walked about 4 miles this day.  But Helen’s fitbit, which spent three long spells sitting still while I explored, recorded 11,788 steps or 5.22 miles.